中华名锦

蜀锦、宋锦、云锦是中国的三大名锦，《中华名锦》介绍了三大名锦

的起源和发展、品种和花型，归纳了中国古代、近代和现代的织

锦技术，总结了蜀锦、宋锦和云锦的传承与创新，传扬了中国自

古以来璀璨的丝绸文化。使读者能充分领略中国历代工匠的精湛

技艺，感受他们精益求精的工匠精神，折服于中国灿烂辉煌的丝

绸文化。本书适用于研究生、本科及专科层次的学生研究使用。

第一章 蜀锦/Shu Brocade 1



第一节 蜀锦的起源与发展/The Origin and Development of Shu Brocade 2



第二节 蜀锦的种类和花色/Varieties and Patterns of Shu Brocade 9



一、蜀锦的种类/The Types of Shu Brocade 9



二、蜀锦的主要品种/The Main Varieties of Shu Brocade 11



三、蜀锦的花色/Varieties and Patterns of Shu Brocade 17



第三节 蜀锦的传承/The Inheritance of Shu Brocade 36



第二章 宋锦/Song Brocade 40



第一节 宋锦的起源与发展/The Origin and Development of Song Brocade 40



一、宋锦的起源/The Origin of Song Brocade 40



二、宋锦的发展/The Development of Song Brocade 41



第二节 宋锦的种类与花色/Varieties and Patterns of Song Brocade 48



一、 宋锦的种类/The Varieties of Song Brocade 48



二、宋锦的花色/Patterns of Song Brocade 51



第三节 宋锦的传承/The Inheritance of Song Brocade 62



一、如何对宋锦进行抢救和保护/How to Rescue and Protect Song Brocade 62



二、宋锦的传承和弘扬/The Inheritance and Promotion of Song Brocade 62



第三章 云锦/Yun Brocade 67



第一节 云锦的起源与发展/The Origin and Development of Yun Brocade 67



一、云锦的起源/The Origin of Yun Brocade 67



二、云锦的繁盛/The Prosperous Period of Yun Brocade 72



三、云锦的衰落/The Decline of Yun Brocade 82



四、云锦的新生/The Reborn of Yun Brocade 84



第二节 云锦的种类与花色/Varieties and Patterns of Yun Brocade 87



一、云锦的种类/The Types of Yun Brocade 87



二、云锦的花色/The Color Matching and Patterns of Yun Brocade 103



第三节 云锦的传承/The Inheritance of Yun Brocade 112



一、云锦的应用/the Application of Yun Brocade 112



二、云锦的创新/The Innovation of Yun Brocade 114



三、云锦的保护和传承/The Protection and Inheritance of Yun Brocade 115



第四章 锦的织造技艺/Brocade Weaving Craftsmanship 116



第一节 古代织锦技艺/Ancient Brocade Weaving Craftsmanship 116



一、图案设计与配色/Pattern Design and Color Matching 116



二、组织设计和意匠图绘制/The Design of Fabric Weaves and the



Drawing of Pattern Grid 120



三、挑花结本/Cross-stitch Work for Forming Decorative Patterns 122



四、织机装造/The Assembly of the Draw Loom 126



五、织造/The Weaving of Brocade 132



第二节 近代织锦技艺/Brocade Weaving Craftsmanshipin Modern Times135



一、机械式提花机概述/An Overview of Mechanical Jacquard Machine 136



二、构件编号和纹针数选用/The Numbering of Jacquard Machine Parts



and the Setting of Figured Hook Number 138



三、辅助针的选用和纹板样卡设计/The Selection of Auxiliary Needles



and the Design of Model Card 143



四、通丝计算与通丝穿目板/The Calculation of Hardness Cord and the



Tie-up of Harness Cord on the Comber Board 146



五、跨把吊装置及棒刀应用/Application of the Crossed-Harness-Cord



Device and Bannister Shaft 154



六、意匠图绘制/The Drawing of Pattern Grid157



第三节 现代织锦技艺/Brocade Weaving Craftsmanship in Contemporary Times ……164



一、电子提花机工作原理/The Working Principle of the Electronic



Jacquard Machine 165



二、电子提花机装造/The Assembly of the Electronic Jacquard Machine 166



三、意匠图绘制/The Drawing of the Pattern Grid 170



参考文献 74

蒋秀翔，纺织工程专业工学硕士，副教授。从事纺织专业教学二十七年，发表相关论文三十余篇，其中核心期刊十余篇；参与省部级教科研六项，市厅级课题5项。主编教材一部。为“江苏省青蓝工程青年骨干教师培养对象”，获“苏州市优秀教师”称号。